As a contrast to the discipline of downhilling (see previous post) I’m spending three days in St Anton, which combines lively apres-ski with challenging slopes. My friend, Katie, and I stayed at the Hotel Kirchplatz (75 Euros each a night including a massive breakfast) at the bottom end of the pedestrian zone, which is central and convenient – essential when you’re only in town for a few days.
Last time we came here I went to the Arlberg Ski School’s Powder Club and Katie joined regular ski school, but as the last snow was more than a fortnight ago and the off-piste looks unpromising it made much more sense this time to ski together.
The Mooserwirt apres-ski bar is some people’s idea of hell: I’ve read that it sells more beer than any bar in Austria. By 4pm it’s packed out, Europop is belting and the dance floor inside is heaving. In my experience, if you get it right, and end up on a fun table, it’s fun. Get it wrong and you can’t wait to get out.
My formula for successful apres-ski in St Anton is to find a spot outside the Mooserwirt at one of the long tables, get chatting to your neighbours over a Weissbier, and have a round or two of schnapps. Sometimes it’s fun in the umbrella bar or inside, but my plan A is outside. I stay till after dark then zoom home to change and go for a late supper either in the Fuhrmannstube (no booking – have a drink at the bar while you wait) or the ‘communal’ pizzeria towards the top of the pedestrian zone, on the right.
In the unlikely event I have stamina to go out after supper we tend to avoid the meat market that’s the Piccadilly, though some friends of mine love it. Instead we like the little bar off the lower end of the pedestrian zone, which used to be Bar 37 and now doesn’t seem to have a name. We’re missing last year’s Mexican barman but I think it still beats the busier, bigger places.
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